Each year the Master of the Distillers Company arranges for the Livery Court to go away on ‘The Trip’, not least in some small way to say ‘thank you’ to Court colleagues for efforts expended in their support of him/her. Usually this involves a visit to a place of high resonance for the Master and runs over 4-5 days, taking in the sights, sounds, atmospherics and (quite naturally) the libations and gastronomy of a region!
Past trips have included locations as varied as Armagnac, Vienna, Salcombe (Devon) and a covid-cancelled trip to Japan. This year Master Dan Szor took the Court to Lyon, from 17th – 21st May, in France – reflecting his having lived in France for 11 years, with he and Katia both now having naturalised French citizenship, an easy fluency of language, and unique ties to their business. And, simply, because Lyon is a delight!
So it was on a recent Sunday in May, thirty or so Court colleagues and partners flew, trained or drove to Lyon on 17th May – arriving on a gorgeous, warm and sunny day in Lyon, staying at the splendid Hotel L’Abbaye situated at the heart of the City, at the peninsular confluence of the rivers Rhône and Saone, and close to the famous Place Bellecour.
After a speedy check in, at our authentic and charming hotel, dinner was taken at the in-house Restaurant L’Artichaut where the Master and consort Katia welcomed all with pre-drinks, the first of some very good dining, and a reminder of the packed programme over the 4 days ahead!
DAY ONE
The much-heralded trip to the Chartreuse cellars beckoned as the first stop – via coach to the village of Voiron. This was a fascinating collection of artefacts, former cellarage casks, stills and (deliberately rather vague!) explanation of the contents of Chartreuse – which as many will recall appears in both green and yellow form.
We were reminded that the original recipe was known only by three of the monks at the Monastery close by – and was a more closely-held secret than the recipe for Coca Cola! Tastings were completed elegantly, and with much praise for its unique taste, though the yellower sweet version (even though at a lowly 43% ABV, compared to 55% ABV for the green) was quite a test to consume before lunch – many moving on to the rather elegant cocktail ‘Le Grand Duc’!
A quick trip to Voiron for lunch at Bistro La Badiane was in order – followed by an afternoon discovering the life of the monks over the years, up to the present day, at the monastery and Musée de la Grand Chartreuse. Returning to the hotel, a quick change and out to dinner at Brasserie Georges – the world-famous eating house that does over 300 000 covers a year – that is, catering to approaching a thousand folk a day. A place of fun, laughter, loud conversations, from single diners to groups of thirty, Master had secured us a private mirrored room at the back of the Grand Hall.
Here we were also able to celebrate Brigitte Gordon’s birthday in style! Bursting at the seams after a delicious dinner, including very more-ish cheese puffs and birthday Baked Alaska, we wandered home approaching midnight down the cobbles and streets, and past the strikingly well-lit architecture, to our hotel.
DAY TWO
After a quick tour first thing of the Abbaye de L’Ainay, right beside our hotel, we headed via the old town of Lyon to the Fourvière district. En route we marvelled at the old city of Lyon – on the one hand, it is a feat of compressed urban living, and on the other open-pollarded, tree-lined esplanades stretch out of view. Happily, we wandered through, with our guide, the older buildings, and the well-preserved Roman-era ruins, exploring the Traboules (renaissance passages), and eventually arriving at the funicular to the Basilica on the hill above the town. Very efficient, if insouciantly driven, too!
The basilica was a gaudy, almost Arabian glitzy-Victorian palace, paired down the hill with amphitheatres built in the Roman period and used daily for the cultural expression of music and theatre of modern Lyon, situated only several hard yards west of the City’s beating heart. Elevated lunch followed at the excellent Rooftop Christian Tetedoie with commanding views over Lyon, with the group now picking out landmarks, and recognition of the now-familiar rivers’ joint track.
After a brief mosey back through the old town, it was time to return to prepare for the evening’s highlight – a slow boat trip on the Saone River in the evening sun, with musical band, and all whilst sipping Cotswold Gin! On (carefully) disembarking the boat, we moved effortlessly on to the Café Terroir – a haven just off the bustling high street – expertly chosen, for a meal of multiple ‘sharing’ dishes, with some really good local wines. Picking up steam, some parts of the group made for the extraordinary Le Dome Bar at the Hotel Dieu, all enclosed inside a former massively-elegant hospital building converted to what is now the Hotel InterContinental. With no little mischief, Master and Liverymen conducted a post-dinner version of the Loving Cup ceremony (with flowers vice daggers!) much to the amusement of the other patrons present….!!
DAY THREE
The gastronomic experience of Lyon veered to dessert on this day with a most extraordinary visit first thing to Chocolats Voisin – by 11am we were shown around the factory making fine praline chocolates, and were pairing a range of chocolates with 4 Cotswold whiskies by Cotswold’s French Brand Ambassador Hugues Robert-Baby – a treat indeed and an extraordinary experience.
There were secret recipes here too – and indeed photography was banned at one stage for a confidential patented production process! A great mixture of manual and automated production – with mostly the former.
All to soon it was off to Ampuis to visit Chateau E. Guigal and stroll its vineyards, see the voluminous casks, and taste the quite excellent range of reds and whites – and see automated bottling up very close!
Very impressive to see 90 000 bottles a day being filled, foiled, packed, and dispatched – producing, as ‘negociants’ with other smaller vineyards, over 10 million bottles a year. Home James (!), and without barely missing a beat, we were then out to our final formal dinner at Leon de Lyon – a splendid small restaurant where the Master and Katia presented Father of the Court Bob Howell (the official Accountant and negotiator for the trip!) and Hugues Robert-Baby with a special edition Cotswold Whisky bottle each for their superb work in support.
DAY FOUR
Some departed on Day 4 for UK, early doors, but those wanting one last hit of gastronomy were not disappointed. First an AM visit to the Grand Hotel Dieu which began life in the 12th Century as a hospital for pilgrims and travellers – but now transformed into a mixed-use complex of high-end accommodation, restaurants, shops and public spaces. Following this, Master and Katia had secured a wonderful trip to Les Halles de Paul Bocuse – with a tour of the celebrated indoor wine and food markets. This brings together some of the regions finest cheesemongers, butchers, bakers, chocolatiers and wine merchants. Tastings of charcuterie and shellfish, with regional cheeses various, and not forgetting the City’s praline tart, were all washed down with excellent local wines. It was nearly the straw that broke the distillers digestive backs, but with true Distiller stamina the team persevered before staging a manged retreat for well-earned siestas!!
This finally drew to a close ‘Court Trip 2026’ – and as each grouping left Lyon with rather tighter belts, and an appreciation of the delights of living and eating, and the extraordinary history and gorgeous setting of Lyon, the unanimity of unbridled thanks was palpable that went out to Master and Katia for a Court Trip executed with extraordinary aplomb, style, generosity and, above all, great spirit…….!
